South America 2013: Cusco 2013 The Peruvian Gem

--- Cusco, Peru ---

Two "mamitas" & their lambs in the early afternoon sunshine in Coquechaka, San Blas

The Journey to Cusco although a long one (17 hours) transpired by with relative ease and I arrived amidst the immediate hustle and bustle at around midday. Despite my pre-planning of Sorochi pills and coca chewing gum, I found myself embraced by a strange feeling that only materialises with the presence of altitude. Cusco stands at around 3400m above sea level, nestled high within the Urubamba Valley in the Andes mountain range that runs from Venezuela in the north of the continent and stretches as far south as Patagonia on the southern most tip of the Chiliean/Argentinian border. The Andes spans some 4300 miles from north to south through no fewer than 7 South American countries (Venezuela, Ecuador, Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina) The altitude can have serious effects on certain people and it can strike even the fittest of folk and has no correlation to who it chooses as it's victim. Luckily for me however, I only suffered initially with a dizzy head and the feeling of lethargy which made walking up steps and short hills a lot harder than normal. I witnessed a few people however really taken back by it with symptoms ranging from extreme vomiting, headaches and the tendency to faint whilst over-exerting. Cusco certainly demands respect, at least for the first few days until acclimatisation kicks in.

Cusco (sometimes spelt Cuzco) is a beautiful city full of charm and magnetism that only a South American City with this grandeur can create. It's not a big city by any account with an approximate population of around 510,000 but it oozes grace and allures you almost instantly with it's dazzling beauty. Cusco was the site of the historic capital of the ancient Inca empire and is a World Heritage Site. The constitution of Peru designates it as their historic capital and it receives over 2 million visitors a year; mainly foreign tourists who use it as a base to explore the Sacred Valley, including Machu Picchu, which is one of the seven new wonders of the world, receiving this accolade in 2007. The city is forged around the main square, Plaza de Armas which formulates a postcard image with a backdrop of mountains and terracotta coloured rooftops. Tourists and locals alike mingle around the square, enjoying the moderate climate whilst relaxing and watching the world go by. And let me tell you, there is no better place to do so!

I arrived at my hostel (www.pariwana-hostel.com) in good time and took advantage of the free coca tea that seemed to be on offer pretty much everywhere. Coca is sworn by in Peru and it's rumoured to have healing effects on almost everything that can put the human body down! It certainly helped with the mild altitude sickness I was experiencing! The first few days of my time in Cusco didn't really encourage me to write about a great deal as I mainly took things easy in order to acclimatise to the altitude so I confined myself to my hostel. Most people do this upon arriving although I did speak to a few people who had arrived and were booked onto treks the following day which in my opinion really isn't a smart idea starting your adventure in this manner! You hear the stories about people that start the Inca trail and other treks soon after arriving but have to quit half way through due to the sickness becoming too severe to continue; the only remedy being to go back down! I really didn't fancy becoming another victim!

I visited the SAN PEDRO MARKET which is approximately a 5 minute walk (or 10 minute stroll depending on the varying level of altitude sickness one is experiencing) from Plaza de Armas square. The market is a sight that has to be witnessed for anyone travelling to Cusco. Markets such as this one are the centre of Peruvian life and people watchers could spend hours here amongst the sea of vendors, listening to the haggling and watching tourists trying on faux alpaca sweaters whilst eavesdropping on the "mamitas" gossiping with children strapped to their backs. The industrious market sellers do their best to catch your attention & convince you to buy their produce using all the tricks in the book; bellowing, screaming and persuading abruptly in their native Spanish language. You can find all-sorts there from traditional Peruvian clothing, fresh fruit and vegetables, breads and cheeses, an eclectic array of meat and poultry including pigs snouts, soup bars, juice bars, iron bars. You name it; you can more than likely buy it at the positively erratic and sometimes completely delirious San Pedro Market. If you want to spend a tranquil morning amongst locals or just thoroughly appreciating the sounds and smells of Peruvian authenticity then this is a great option that's within walking distance of the main square, but a world away from the life we know back home. I highly recommend!

Another highlight for me in the magnificent city of Cusco was the Choco Museum, located on Calle Garcilaso, a short stroll from Plaza de Armas. (www.chocomuseo.com) It's the perfect stop if you fancy relaxing with a choco mocha overlooking the picturesque Regojico Square whilst soaking up the late afternoon ambience. I found the museum to be quaint and educational and I enjoyed learning about how the chocolate was made from bean to bar! Chocolate has a fascinating story, especially in South America and is surrounded by infinite surprising facts! I mean, who doesn't like chocolate right?! The museum offers a chocolate making workshop which runs daily from 10am but be advised, this class is popular so make sure you book in advance. During the workshop you get to make your own chocolate and customise exactly what and how you want it to taste. A delightful experience! They also offer a free interactive tour which delves into the process behind cacao and how it gets produced. Again, I highly recommend a visit. A personal favourite of mine on their menu was the Chocolate fondue at a cost of $20 soles (About £4.50) and is easily enough for 4 people to share. After a good few hours at the Choco Museo, I retired back to my hostel, content and full, inevitably weighing a few pounds more!

After a few days of exploring the city, my travel buddies and I booked onto a 3 day jungle trek which would include a day of mountain biking, a day of a trekking along the river to Aguas Calientes (translates to "hot water" in English) and the final day would act as the crescendo for Machu Picchu with a 4am start to begin the climb to the ancient inca ruins. The 3 day trek to Machu Picchu deserves it's own blog entry of which you can read (here) so I won't elaborate whilst writing about my time in Cusco. Upon our return from the trek, my good friend Tyler and I decided to change hostels and move to the popular San Blas area of Cusco into a fantastic little place named "La Casa de la Gringa" (www.casadelagringa.com)

La Casa de la Gringa (House of the gringo) was nestled in the heart of the San Blas district in Cusco; a labyrinth of tight and winding street passages which boasted excellent views over the city. Charming bistros and quaint shops lined Las Calles where the locals would again entice you inside to purchase their produce. The hostel was delightful and a complete change from what we were used to at the Pariwana. The breakfast was beautiful and the rooms although small, were quaint, clean and welcoming. It was a far cry from the Pariwana hostel which had more emphasis on a party lifestyle whereas La Gringa was intimate, warm and reminiscent of the familiarities I was used to back home in the UK. It was here I met the two Sophie's from London who would become fantastic travel buddies and friends for the proceeding month that followed on from Cusco. They had both been travelling for a while and found themselves in the city with only a couple of months left before flying back home. That night we all went out to a restaurant (Los Perros) near the main Plaza de Armas square to become better acquainted.

Meeting both Sophie's compelled me to write about another highlight of my time in Cusco which was thankfully introduced to me. This delectable place was "Jack's Coffee bar" on Calle Choquechaka, a few steps down from the San Blas Square. (www.jackscafecusco.com) It became my secondary home for the remainder of my stay in Cusco where I could be found nursing hang-overs using the unconventional medicine of double shot americano's & chocolate brownies. I'd also use Jacks as the venue for my "second breakfast" from time to time where I'd ply myself with generous lashings of bacon, copious heaps of finely chopped sausage, mounds of scrambled eggs and mushrooms. The portion sizes at this place are immense. If you find yourself in Jack's bar on your trip to Cusco and you're the type of person that craves a more desirable portion size, you'll certainly not be disappointed! Once more, it's only a short stroll from the main square through a series of winding passages where you'll find vendors embossed to the side of the streets selling their authentic Peruvian produce. Jack's acts as a fantastic distraction from the hustle and bustle of the cobbled street markets which will certainly give you an ideal opportunity to rest after your somewhat predictable purchases through the entanglement of traditional Peruvian exchange.

I originally only planned to stay in Cusco for a week but due to it's seemingly enchanting pull, I ended up residing for a little over a fortnight. Local Cusconians seem to exude a semblance of tranquility and once the city strengthens its clasp, you too become intwined under it's spell and become encapsulated as if ancient inca bewitchery has weaved it's way into your bones thus making it almost impossible to want to leave! Waking up under a clear blue sky with far reaching views across the Urubamba valley became the norm!

"The only thing that's left to do is live"

CHRIS' ALTERNATIVE HIGHLIGHTS IN CUSCO

1 * San Blas Square & Market

In my opinion, the San Blas district of Cusco is one of the most picturesque sites in the city. The neighbourhood has many workshops, craft shops, cafes and artisan galleries for one to appreciate. The streets in San Blas are steep and narrow with old houses built by the Spanish over important Inca foundations. The square is attractive and has the oldest church in Cusco which was built in 1563. The Quechua name of this neighbourhood is Tuq'ukachi which means opening of the salt. The market which is situated at the western end of the district is reminiscent of the San Pedro market but selling food produce only. The locals seem to use this place to buy their meats, poultry and vegetables as well as stopping by for lunch in one of the many stalls that serve basic traditional Peruvian dishes. I recommend mingling amongst them and trying the chicken soup! Spot on!

2 * Juanitos

A great little cafe on the edge of the San Blas district which serves the best sandwiches in town. The prices here are a little more expensive than normal but are well worth the splurge. The portion sizes are delicious and moderately sized. I recommend the Pollo con Queso (chicken and cheese). A huge breast of chicken with a generous lashing of melted mozzarella cheese, tomato, olives, and onions! Make sure you pick one of their huge range of sauces to drizzle generously over your chosen weapon of delight!

3 * Sacsayhuaman

Be sure to trek up to the ancient Inca ruins that double as a vantage point over Cusco. From here you'll be treated to amazing view across the city! A great little spot for a picnic after the tough climb also. An hour minimum here is essential! You can buy a ticket that covers the cost of the ruins and will also permit entry to the other Inca ruins located around the Urabamba Valley. The cost is around $70 soles (£15) You can also pay a taxi driver around $100 soles to drive you between the many other sites. This usually takes an entire day.

4 * San Pedro Ceremony

Okay, so I'm cheating here a little considering that I didn't actually participate in a ceremony myself but the people that I engaged with around Hostal de la Gringa that had experienced it, spoke about it very highly. San Pedro is the name given to the medicine that is extracted from the cactus Echinopsis Pachanoi and is drunk under the guidance of a local Shaman as part of a ceremony. On the day, it requires the person to refrain from food or drink prior to consumption of the medicine. This is because the cactus extract effect works better on an empty stomach. The mescaline that is found inside the liquid is rumoured to have healing affects on the mind and is consumed by people that want to find themselves, deal with problems or have an outer body experience. The effect of the medicine lasts for anything up to 8 hours.

5 * Pisac and the Sacred Valley.

Although not in the city of Cusco itself, Pisac and the Sacred Valley are well worth visiting. You can catch the bus there which takes around 1 hour, 30 minutes or if there are a few of you, taking a taxi at a cost of around $80 soles return is probably the wiser option. It's a good hour drive from the city in a taxi but provides a nice excursion. The journey is fantastic as you slowly cut through the Sacred Valley region of Peru. Amazing countryside will provide your eyes wit a real treat. Pisac itself is a small market town thats worth spending a few hours exploring or shopping the many markets. Pisac can also be used as a springboard to jump over to the other towns of the region like Ollantaytambo, Chinchero and Urubamba.